Thursday, 12 July 2007

All systems go!

Finally we have managed to develop a Polyurethane for our climbing holds! This has taken the best part of 4 months, and has been a roller coaster of a ride. Granted, some of that ride was stationary as we let the boffins sort out a special propriety mix, but a roller coaster no less. We have learnt so much about PU it's unbelievable. We also learnt that other companies will be following our lead and moving over to PU, they however have not ha access to labs and scientists working round the clock. We learnt that off the shelf PU is lower quality as it contain all sorts gunk to build it up to a 100:100 mix. Real science is not that perfect. After the last tests (2 more grades of friction) we will be able to manufacture in the next week. Exciting stuff. We have also managed to get our hands on some clear PU which is expensive but looks ace


It the Cliffhanger event this weekend, which will sort the men from the boys, the beasts from the punters, and in one foul swoop decide on the British bouldering Champion. Audrey is competing to regain her title. As you may or may not know I've been coaching her for the last 6/7 months, and have travelled to a couple of World Cups as one-man-support-team. The season started badly when she tweaked a tendon just before the 1st event. I feel responsible when she doesn't climb well and always blame myself. We are most of the way through the WC season now and Audrey has been working WAY too hard and is trying to juggle this with her climbing and a personal life. Not far when you consider that most of the top 10 females climb full time and most of the French live at their sport school!
One of the things we pinpointed as a weakness early on was that she is very efficient at onsighting easier problems. For instance at the WC in Reunion Audrey qualified in joint 1st for the semi finals beating a star studied field. In the semi a couple of sequences and chances missed put her out of the finals. This, however, is the way of comps. I think her results don't accurately describe how well she is climbing despite not reaching any finals. I'm hoping that as the British comp will be easier problems she will crush......especially Andy's new bird. Fingers crossed x Check out this link for some volume climbing tips from the frogs

I'm hoping to get on Zeke this weekend (what happened Ben!) The bolts are still shocking, so I'll probably just toprope from the Sissy anchors. I'm hoping that its not going to be as hard Pump up the power. I had a pretty good link on PUTP last week, so am psyched to get back on it. I'm also aware that if I spend to long on it I'll lose motivation. This is pretty much what has happened on Powerband. I still can't do the last move that my mate Iain did 2nd go and could lap with ease. I feel that I would be closer to Pump up the powerband than doing that last move. Jesus need to get stronger on that pocket. I've started to get into a good routine climbing 4 days in a row after a rest on Thursday. This means that I can tweak the weekly intensity by training or resting while I'm in London. Watch this space!

Saturday, 7 July 2007

Thursday, 5 July 2007

Rain Rain Rain


All is seems to do here is rain. After getting back from London late last night we spent most of the morning asleep. This afternoon we went to Buxton to finalise our flowers for the wedding. I thought that maybe, just maybe we might get to climb at the Tor on the way back. No fucking chance. Halfway through choosing lily's it starts to rain and then hasn't stopped since.


I'm hoping that its better this weekend and I don't have to climb indoors too much

Monday, 2 July 2007

I feel like a pig has shat in my head


Saturday night was spent at Sam and Neil's 30th party in the newly renovated 'Earl' on Queens road. I managed to get totally battered, until about 7am on Sunday morning...................after probably offending people without realising it and making a fool of my self. Sorry people

Lucy came back from her hen do last night after a weekend filled with Lama's, food, strippers and more food. Unfortunately she caught the cold I brought back from Berlin, so both of use were not on form by any stretch of the imagination.

I've got to leave for London tonight, which means only today to spend with Lu. I can't wait until I don't have to work there anymore. That's not going to be until our business is up an running. Seeing as we have been developing this PU for about 6 months it had better be good!

Finally a shot of Berlin that I forgot to post before (Cheers Char). Its of the Holocaust museum.