All systems go!

Finally we have managed to develop a Polyurethane for our climbing holds! This has taken the best part of 4 months, and has been a roller coaster of a ride. Granted, some of that ride was stationary as we let the boffins sort out a special propriety mix, but a roller coaster no less. We have learnt so much about PU it's unbelievable. We also learnt that other companies will be following our lead and moving over to PU, they however have not ha access to labs and scientists working round the clock. We learnt that off the shelf PU is lower quality as it contain all sorts gunk to build it up to a 100:100 mix. Real science is not that perfect. After the last tests (2 more grades of friction) we will be able to manufacture in the next week. Exciting stuff. We have also managed to get our hands on some clear PU which is expensive but looks ace


It the Cliffhanger event this weekend, which will sort the men from the boys, the beasts from the punters, and in one foul swoop decide on the British bouldering Champion. Audrey is competing to regain her title. As you may or may not know I've been coaching her for the last 6/7 months, and have travelled to a couple of World Cups as one-man-support-team. The season started badly when she tweaked a tendon just before the 1st event. I feel responsible when she doesn't climb well and always blame myself. We are most of the way through the WC season now and Audrey has been working WAY too hard and is trying to juggle this with her climbing and a personal life. Not far when you consider that most of the top 10 females climb full time and most of the French live at their sport school!
One of the things we pinpointed as a weakness early on was that she is very efficient at onsighting easier problems. For instance at the WC in Reunion Audrey qualified in joint 1st for the semi finals beating a star studied field. In the semi a couple of sequences and chances missed put her out of the finals. This, however, is the way of comps. I think her results don't accurately describe how well she is climbing despite not reaching any finals. I'm hoping that as the British comp will be easier problems she will crush......especially Andy's new bird. Fingers crossed x Check out this link for some volume climbing tips from the frogs

I'm hoping to get on Zeke this weekend (what happened Ben!) The bolts are still shocking, so I'll probably just toprope from the Sissy anchors. I'm hoping that its not going to be as hard Pump up the power. I had a pretty good link on PUTP last week, so am psyched to get back on it. I'm also aware that if I spend to long on it I'll lose motivation. This is pretty much what has happened on Powerband. I still can't do the last move that my mate Iain did 2nd go and could lap with ease. I feel that I would be closer to Pump up the powerband than doing that last move. Jesus need to get stronger on that pocket. I've started to get into a good routine climbing 4 days in a row after a rest on Thursday. This means that I can tweak the weekly intensity by training or resting while I'm in London. Watch this space!